www.motorfahrrad.eu

Hi

There is a very easy way how to controle if the exhaust is plugged or not. Ye take the exhaust off. The part wich go,s the to cilinder ye put in front off ye lips. And try to blow some air threw the exhaust. If this go,s easy there,s nothing wrong. And the exhaust isn,t the problem.

The carb can be the cause of ye problems. But before ye do anything i would say clean the inside of ye tank first.
Fill the tank up. Shake the spartamet a litlle. And filter ( i do this with a koffie filter. Ye know the part wich filters ye koffie when ye make a kop off koffie. And don,t forget to put het paper inside the filter ) all the petrol wich wil comes out when ye draine the tank agian.

And put a fuel filter between ye tank and the carb.

Afther that ye cleaned the petrol. Ye have to take out the fuel tank off ye bike. And clean the inside off the tank. I usely do this with a alcehol based product. The product i use has 80 % alcehol base. In dutch / Netherlands we cal it spiritus. When ye done with this. And ye are certian the inside off the tank is clean. Ye built the tank back inside the bike and fil it up agian with the filtered fuel. Now ye know for certain, the fuel is clean and the inside of the tank also

Wel i can talk about how to take a carb appart. And ye wil have all the bits and piece on ye workbench. But somehow i think when ye use fuel fit it wil sort out the problem. Cos there,s only a little plugging in ye carb. Cos het bike stil runs.

How to use fuel fit.

I put 0.5 ml in 5 liters off petrol.

Wot does fuel fit

Fuel fit removes all the plugging off ye fuel system. And certanly wil clean the inside off ye carb. Be very aware off the fact when ye use fuel fit. All the crap in ye tank ( and efen when ye cleaned ye tank it stil wil be there ) wil end up in ye carb when ye don,t use a fuel filter between ye tank and the carb.

Fuel filter

The part wich is filtering the fuel has to be made out off paper. So buy a filter with these terms.

Afther a while running / using ( a mix off fuel fit and normal spartamet petrol ) the performance of ye bike should in wich we considder going back to normal performance.

Wel if this doesn,t do the trick for ye. Well, than ye have to take ye carb appart into bits and pieces.

http://spartamet.angelfire.com/301-exploded.pdf

This link should bring ye to a exploded fiew off a older engine
But when ye scrol down ye wil come to the part where it shows ye all the bits a peices off the carb. And i think its 1 of those 2 shown there. Look at hem closely and print it out before ye start to think about taking ye carb appart. A wise man said, think twice before ye do anything.

I cant profide you with a tekst from how to clean ye carb cos its all in dutch.

When ye start to put ye carb back together and ye forget or misplace a single part in ye carb. The engine wil not run and ye wil become very frustrated. And i am very sure off that fact. So read the drawing carefully.

Hopefully all above wil sort out ye problems with the spartmet. Cos there are manny reasons why ye spartamet doesn,t run as it suppose to do. But written above is the most commen 1.

And give the fuel fit some time to do his work. Its not like 3 min and its done. Its takes time. Give it a couple off days. And how more miles ye run the engine with the fuel fit in the petrol how better it works.

If this doesn,t sort out ye problem. Contact us agian and we wil try to sort it out.

The best off luck with ye spartamet m8ty.

Nobody makes efforts to reanimate the old ones.

Thank you. I see why. It's very disposable schrott by the time it is used-up.

Dieter: Englisch und alle communication ist schwerig 'from time to time'. Nothing personal against deutsch.

Edit: yoekio, somehow I missed your reply. Excellent. I think y'learned english in ireland? I found it very understandable. What you said is all good, and first I am going to pull the exhaust tomorrow now. With all this community help I feel the pressure to get over the and stop doing so much and more action.

Hi ndrscons

Thx for the compliment. Well to answer your question where i learned englsih. Well i used to be a part off the online gaming world -> first person shooters.<- good fun, lmfao. And there i learned how to speak english. Specially on team speak and making post,s on the forum.

Well,i hear ye, but the bike cant repair it self m8ty. So............... get a move on boy, lmfao.


First rule on taking a bike appart is, remember where is came from and how to put it back in the correct way.

I am sure when ye use ye commen sence. All wil be good.

The best off luck there.

Should be rather simple, think of the engine as an "air pump". Anything that restricts the air flow will reduce power.

It is a good idea to go through the basics first. Here is some good advice that was given to me a few years back, a good starting point. We can from there.

Here's how to get the best performance out of your Sachs or Rotary 301/a without major modifications (Insane Tuning pipes, machining engine etc)
First, get the service manuals and as much information from the internet as you can find (see links). By Performance I am not just talking about maximum speed, there is really no point in trying to faster than 30km/hr, the Sachs is not geared for high speed, any faster than 30km/hr is just going to make a lot of noise and reduce the engine life. If you want to go faster, be realistic and get yourself a 50cc moped or larger motorcycle. The point of the Sachs is that it is a tiny, add-on engine, light-weight and economical if driven at around 20-30km/hr.
1. Make sure your bike is well maintained, no brakes rubbing, or loose parts (check chain, wheels, pedals bars, mud guards etc). Make sure your brake cables are well lubricated and the brakes don’t stick on, (check by spinning the wheels and applying the brakes).
2. Check your tyres are at the correct pressure and fitted properly (no valve bumps) and your wheels are free running, true and not damaged.
3. Mix your unleaded fuel and 80:1 oil well (you will find different performance between the petrol retailers)
4. Its worth stripping down your carburettor (careful not to break those gaskets) and making sure the float chamber is clean as well as the main jet, and idle jet drillings and the needle valve. On The Bing carb, (don’t over tighten the float chamber screws and crack the plastic). You won’t get better performance messing around with the jets, I can’t over emphasise the benefit of a surgically clean carb!
5. When the carb is removed, unscrew the induction port plastic plate and check the reed valve is secure and clean.
6. Set the idle speed with the engine running, set the throttle idle speed so that the wheel just rotates when lifted off the ground at idle and the engine idles smoothly. (Set up on a warmed up engine), you will have to pump the throttle each time you trim the idle screw to allow it to settle.( I find with my bike at idle I get a speed of around 13-16 KM/hr without peddling).
7. Make sure all the Allen key bolts around the engine are tight and there are no oil leaks.
8. Clean the top of the carb case with a small brush; lube (wd40) the control cables etc.
9. Check your air filter is clean and fitted properly.
10. Its worth modifying or changing your CDI unit (blue or red ignition box near air filter) to get max revs (the stock unit is set to restrict the engine as per local regulations). The modification needs a patient steady hand, if rushed you could easily destroy the unit! See Mod information below. Otherwise make your own ignition unit (see links below)
11. Check the electrical wires between coil, CDI and Carb are all in good condition and connected properly.
12.Check the ignition coil/flywheel pickup gap (0.4mm max), remove the plastic panel where the pull start goes, you will see the fly wheel and close by, the ignition coil, the part close to the flywheel is where the ignition pulse is picked up, check the gap between the flywheel and the pickup, you can adjust it with Allen keys or torx keys on the coil, don’t set it so the pickup scuffs the fly wheel magnet, rotate the fly wheel whilst setting the gap (the flywheel has a magnet in it). Use a feeler gauge.
13. Fit a clean spark plug and check the gap (0.5-0.6mm), I have found better performance with a hotter running spark plug (NGK B6HS) as opposed to the cooler B7HS. It's worth trying a very slightly larger electrode gap (your local motorcycle guy will tell you, it’s to do with your local fuel and Altitude. Learn to “read” spark plug electrode colouring you want “biscuit brown”, it’s the best way to check your combustion is right. Oil around the spark plug means its not sealing properly (low compression), don’t over-tighten the spark plug, rather replace it with a new one with a new seal washer, if possible fit using a torque wrench. Don’t underestimate the importance of the right spark plug and electrode gap, it really does make a huge difference to the performance of the engine.
14. Make sure your exhaust is well sealed and clean and the securing screws are tight.
15. Check your fuel filter is clean and working
16. Check your throttle cable is ok and does not have too much slack in it, (adjust at handle bar), same for the on/off choke control cable, check its set up correctly, when in the engine off position at the handle bar control, the spring on the carb rod should not pull up more than 1 mm above the plunger top position. On my bike, the throttle twist required to get maximum revs is only about 1/2 of the total rotational range of the control. I have put tape markers on my twist throttle control to see where I tend to twist it.
17. Riding, when starting, take 2-5 minutes to warm the engine up by riding slowly on the flat, always pedal to start off to avoid staining the clutch.
18. Riding, when the road is bumpy take your weight off the saddle and stand on the pedals with your knees slightly bent, to reduce the shocks to the rear of the bike. Never ride over pot holes at high speed, remember your cast alloy back wheel won’t straighten out once bent.
19. Riding, Air resistance becomes significant above 15 km/hr, reduce your profile by crouching towards the handle bars and (if you, like me have a women’s bike) rest your feet on the cross bar.
19. Take basic tools and spares with you!.
20. Check your transmission oil, use the right one.
21. With modified CDI, try getting more air into the engine drilling air holes into the back plastic box. (I have not tried this yet, so I can’t say if it helps yet), you may find increased noise and carb de-tuning (leaning mixture) as the plastic box where the air filter is acts as a induction noise muffler and sized air inlet.
22. Reduce your bike’s weight, remove unused parts (I removed the clear plastic side guards below the parcel rack on mine, because they resonate with the engine vibration and make a terrible noise!)
23. Starting, if you are finding your machine difficult to start, remember - Fuel, Ignition, Compression, and Timing. I find the Bing crab’s choke is sometimes not too good on cold mornings, if you are away from home and are really struggling to get the Sachs engine going, try the following procedures.


Trouble starting?

1. Relax, find a quite. Safe place with flat ground and put the bike up on the stand. If you have been riding your machine ok and are finding it difficult to start, I find that nine times out of ten it’s a fuel issue (not enough drawn in by the choke).
2. Check there is fresh uncontaminated (water etc) fuel in the tank, and you can see it in the fuel filter, pipe.
3. If you can remove the spark plug, check there is spark but touching the bottom of the removed plug onto the engine chassis (with the spark plug cable connected to the top of the pug as usual) and gently pulling the starting cord, you should see sparks (avoid pulling the engine start with the spark plug disconnected of the bottom of the plug not grounded (can damage the CDI)
4. Assuming you do have spark, try unscrewing the back air filter box and remove the air filter, block the carb inlet port with a finger and pull the starting cord once or twice slowly. This has a strong choking effect and draws fuel into the carb, (you should see it wet in the inlet when you remove your finger). Replace air filter and try starting again This very often get the engine running especially if the machine has been standing for a while.
5. If you don’t have spark, its time to check your wiring, inspect the connectors on the CDI and on the coil unit (might have to remove the plastic side panel). Try disconnecting the blue wire that runs into the top of the carb box to the carb, that’s the kill switch wire and if the switch in the carb is stuck on, there will never be spark. Note that if you do get the engine running with the kill switch wire disconnected, you will need to touch that wire (from the CDI) to the engine chassis to stop the engine (never pull the spark plug cable off to stop the engine, you might damage the CDI unit). Make sure none of the connectors are shorted out to one another or the engine chassis. If your On/Off/Choke cable is not correctly adjusted you can find that the engine kills when you select the normal running position after starting on choke.
6. If you are finding your carb is flooding and fuel is dripping out, the carb needle valve is fouled and not closing properly, you need to strip down the carb and clean it. Remember to work safely with fuel!
7. If you are not getting any fuel to the carb, check your control cables, it could be the stop cock inside the carb, your pipes, filter etc.





Quick check list on troublesome starting...
FUEL
1) Fuel, Oil --no fuel, too much oil.
2) Fuel Pipe—blocked.
3) Fuel filter—blocked.
4) Carb stop cock/control cable—damaged, maladjusted.
5) Carb choke/control cable—damaged, maladjusted.
6) Carb needle valve – fouled, damaged, blocked
7) Carb jets– fouled, damaged, blocked
Blocked air filter
9) Flooding carb – Fouled needle valve
IGNITION
1) CDI wiring/connectors – connected wrong, disconnected, damaged CDI.
2) Ignition coil/pickup/connectors—damaged coil, wires, loose screws on coil.
3) Spark plug/cable/connector – Fouled, damaged plug, damaged cable or connector
4) Carb Kill switch—stuck in Kill position inside carb, wire shorted to chassis, control plunger.
COMPRESSION
1) Spark plug (Loose fit, gas escaping) ( make sure plug hole rim is clean, tighten plug with a torque wrench)
2) Cylinder Gaskets, seals.
TIMING
1) Coil gap/flywheel – loose coil mounting, damaged flywheel, coil
2) CDI UNIT—Damaged CDI, wires
3) Reed valves


To summarise; for speed you need.....
1> Free-running true wheels
2> Pumped tyres
3> Correct fuel/oil
4> Modified CDI, correct flywheel/coil pick up gap setting
5> Correct spark plug and gap setting
6> Clean carburettor and air filter
7> Flat smooth road, no wind, low-drag riding position and clothing.

With all these conditions you should get a steady 28 – 30 km/hr drive on your Sachs 301/a 26x1 3/8 wheel machine.

Hope this helps,

Rich
Portland Oregon

Hello Rich,

it is very kind of you and it was a lot of work that you gave NDRSCONS this very systematic instruction. I'm sure that helps a lot.
I think, the Saxonette is not important enough to learn German. So thank you very much and welcome in this forum!
Important or up to now unknown facts we will translate for our German users.

@ Alle:
Ich bin auch voll dafür, solche rein englisch sprachigen Threads hier zuzulassen. Die Saxonette hat im englisch sprachigen Raum nur eine sehr geringe Verbreitung. Gerade mal in Australien gibt es ein paar mehr. Woher sollen diese Fahrer Unterstützung bekommen? Ein paar von uns verstehen Englisch sehr gut, noch weniger können es sehr gut sprechen.
Ich verspreche euch, dass ihr nichts Wichtiges versäumt. Denn alle neuen Erkenntnisse werden Dennis oder ich euch übersetzen. Ich weiß da noch einen sehr englischstarken Norddeutschen. Südlich von Hannover nicht zu vergessen, den humorvollen Mann mit dem Cabrio.
Da mögen noch in Anderen mir bisher unbekannte Sprachtalente schlummern. Ich kenne zwar viele von euch, aber nicht alle eure Stärken.

Grüße - Dieter

NDRSCONS must not take the fuel SuperE10. The rubber parts in the carb could be damaged!

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Kein Super E10 tanken. Die Gummiteile im Vergaser können Schaden nehmen.

Dieter

thanks for the great replies... however in order to properly digest them, coffee is needed first.

I can say this: so much interest and compatible good ideas - I can comfortably throw out all preconceptions. For now I had a good night so today I am just a lump.. Sporti let me know the thread is coming along. Ah! Also I had no portable camera, however, with improvement in our communications, I will post photos today, also of the auspuff.

ich muss Vorbegriff abschmettern!

meanwhile coffee... and I will return to edit this reply and subject. When you see COFFEE!! change you know..

Hi Rich,
nice instruction.

Good job we have you as a native speaker on this board.
I myself haven´t spoken English in years. I seem to have a slight lac of vocabulary.
I have to look up quite a few words in the translator. So I hope you understand what I´m talking about.

Maybe I can add two little things to your posting.

1. When disassembling the carb you should look out for the little plastic plate on the throttle damper.
Don´t lose the little spring between the damper and the plate.
When reassembling, the little plate has to point towards the engine not the other way round.

2. Quite a few beginners make the mistake swapping the throttle- and the choke-cable and connecting them to the wrong lever when remounting the carb after cleaning it.

Dennis

Ich kann zwar zum Thema keinen Beitrag leisten , begrüße aber ausdrücklich die kompetente Hilfe unserer englishsprachigen Forumsmitglieder.
VG Sachso

Hi

Losing the little spring isn,t the end off the world. Ye can fil it up with scots bright. Using the little plastic plate as a template. And all is good agian

But above is just a little add on in case ye did lose the spring.