www.motorfahrrad.eu

tnt-dennis hat geschrieben:Sachs recommends the Bosch WR10FC.

An equivalent from NGK would be the BP4 only that this one does not have a resister inside.
It cold induce HF interference in local radio. If you don´t mind, it is o.k. to use the NGK.

If interference is the only issue, then I don't hesitate. Also, why not put inline a resistor? kind of tricky to insulate though.

I'd be more concerned with how the coil responds to lack of resistance, but then it's a stronger spark?

Hi

I am sorry must have read it all wrong.

So the problem lies in the fact when ye run full throtle the engine sundely dies.

I think i know wots wrong. Had this 1 myself Took me ages to figure out wot wos wrong with the bloody engine.

I think the problem lies in the fact when ye run full throttle somehow it puls also on the braker leverich ( kill switch )

Right, most off the time all the cables are tied down to the frame with tie ribs -> http://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tie-wrap.
Cut the tie ribs. The one,s wich hold the 3 cables down for operating ye bike. And i mean throttle, choke/ start and the rear brake cable. So the cables can move free-ly without bothering each other. And try agian. In other words, make sure that every leverich ( cable ) is working independently. So when ye pull 1 it isn,t operating the other 1 to.

I recon this wil solve ye problem. In other words, i am sure of it.

And yeah, i know, something these little engines can be a real pain in the ( -> a place where the sun doesn,t shine < - )

Before i forget something, a other thing can be, there is a little piece off insulation missing on ye kill switch cable wich run from ye carb to the cdi. And when this open part off the cable comes into contact with ye carb. Bam, it wil act as ye pulled the kill switch. But mine first solution to the problem is, cut the tie ribs and try agian.

yoekio

ok. so the next step is to troubleshoot the kill switch, which i have not seen but will look for, and to get the bosch wr10fc

Transmission fluid.
Inside the engine there are some gears and bearings. They are turning in gear oil. That must not be changed, but inside the housing there must be enough of it. That's all.

The oil specification is SAE 90. About 80 cm³ are necessary.

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The kill switch is integrated in the upper parts of the carburetor. When you push the choke lever at the handle bar into driving direction, the choke lever is pulled up maximal. In this position the switch inside the carb closes and the energy in the red wire dissapears to the frame.
Without a spark the engine stops.

Is not so important and I think that's not your mistake.

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Old professionals or people who drive Saxonette for years have at least a second carburetor, a second coil and a second module.
These parts are new and they are only used to find mistakes. Having found the malfunction, we repair the faulty parts if possible or take other old parts. Then we replace the new parts with well working old parts for the further use.

Dieter

Dieter-K hat geschrieben: ...

yoekio hat geschrieben: ...

tnt-dennis hat geschrieben:...

I would like to credit all of you with helping to discover the major problem.

Please examine the photos just before the repair and I think you will figure out what was likely the major problem.

Klick für fotos

Especially this photo:


Note: I never moved the cables out of the supports - the brake drum housing, until today to switch them to the correct position. So whomever did prior maintenance reversed the choke and throttle cables. It was when the action of the 'throttle' was examined to be activating the blue-wire killswitch, and the action of the 'choke' was moving the fuel needle, and the 'choke' arm had a throttle adjustment whereas the 'throttle' was missing an adjustment screw, plus that it seemed - as from the photo - the control cables were twisted to reach the drum from what seemed like their natural factory-positions, that's how it was noticed. I was specifically looking for these kind of mix-ups based on the comments on the board.



Zündkerz
The local automotive does not have the NGK BP4 in stock, and it is not normally something stocked. So in the time being I use the B6HS.

I have not done anything with the transmission fluid yet.

Also it was too late to make a test-drive with the correct cable configuration.

Good job you found the fault.
I already mentioned that on page 2 of this thread. I thought you checked it.

2. Quite a few beginners make the mistake swapping the throttle- and the choke-cable and connecting them to the wrong lever when remounting the carb after cleaning it.

It could maybe have saved you the money for a new exhaust.

Have fun riding your bike.

Dennis

Good job you found the fault.
I already mentioned that on page 2 of this thread. I thought you checked it.

Your tip was not seen... there were so many tips, dennis. So many people recommended a new exhaust it was an easy capitulation.

It is very pleasing to have the new exhaust though... it's shiny and Now there is an extra.
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So these further questions can be taken into new threads if needed:

Will the following link to a five-speed kit go on the saxonette?
http://www.brucker-radl-service.com/5-G ... ruestsatz/

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lemsteraak hat geschrieben:One other thing, the German Saxonettes go about 13 Mph, they are geared lower. You probably have an export Saxonettes, they are faster, mine does 17 Mph, still climbs hills well.

It definitely appears to be the 13mph version. There is no indication this is an export model, with records of having spent all of it's life registered to domestic locations. How is the gearing changed? Is there a parts-kit?
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What is an appropriate front rack? It seems this would balance out the weight.

To-do-list:
* New Schwalbe marathon plus instead of the existing tires
** lower rolling resistance and lower air resistance. better economy
** better reliability, the old tires have maybe another year but seem to create a lot of resistance due to the tread being very 'offroad'.
* Front rack matching the quality and strength of the back rack.
** move weight forward and more safely balance the bike
* 17mph instead of 13mph gearing
** better mileage and speed, better economy
* 5 speed rear derailer to use the bike as a bike
** exercise, normal use when the motor is not needed
* led front and rear light, new front wheel with a hub generator
** safety, visibility
* much taller handlebars (these can be picked-up probably at the Regenbogenfabrik as used parts)
** The back of the rider is not upright, and is much too curved forward when the seat is at the correct height.
** For instance I cannot ride it more than test-rides. The stem is extended to the maximum amount. The grips need another 8cm of height.

MANY BOWS TO ALL THE CONTRIBUTORS!!

Jetzt eben auf Deutsch die Auflösung.
Man traut sich gar nicht, die Ursache hinzuschreiben.

Gas- und Chokezug waren schon vom Vorbesitzer vertauscht. Dennis und ndrscons sind die Gewinner in diesem Thread.
Dennis hat den Fehler als mögliche Ursache genannt, und ndrscons hat nun eine funktonierende Saxoentte.

Well done! - Dieter

Ich hätter auch auf die Lösung kommen müssen. Aber so richtig konnte ich Ihn nicht verstehen. Da war zu viel auf einmal.
Das ging über meine Kenntnisse
I must findthe solution, but I was not able to understand ndrscons completly.

NDscons:

Brucker is O.K.
And you cannot change the motorgears. The design is not in that way, that is possible.

Sporti

And you cannot change the motorgears. The design is not in that way, that is possible.