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Kolbenfresser hat geschrieben: ...Important, the Bosch WRC 10 Spark Plug has 0,8mm you need 0,5mm.

That is the distance between the electrodes.

Ndrscon

I believe you are making progress. When you get something used, there is always a problem or two to repair, especially if it is free. Yoekio is correct, a Spartamet is quite a sophisticated motor, and can be expensive to repair. But .... I think it is worth it, I enjoy mine more than any other way to get around, Several years ago, I had my car stolen, I didn't notice for two weeks, I did not care, but when my Saxonette was stolen, I was very upset, took me four months to find it and get it back, long story. An Australian couple I know have crossed the US twice and Australia several times along with other adventures on theirs. One he has ridden over 50 thousand kilometers.

Back to your repair. I believe you are receiving very good advice. I would not have thought of the coil, but that may be like the problem. You can test it, this link might help, I hope this link works, it is a translation of the Saxonette Repair Manual - Page 21.



here is the URL https://sites.google.com/site/photosand ... es/page-21

One other thing, the German Saxonettes go about 13 Mph, they are geared lower. You probably have an export Saxonettes, they are faster, mine does 17 Mph, still climbs hills well.

Rich

Hi Steward,

THROTTLE ISSUES
When full throttle, though, the engine after warmed up, the firing will completely cut out at top throttle riding on the road surface. Like the ignition stops completely. However, the engine continues if the throttle is released right away, and can be restarted from complete stop, right away with a pull. What could it be?

Lets hope it´s not your ignition coil.

Does this happen with both CDI´s? Wolles and the original? Sometimes the home made CDI´s are crappy.
If it does happen with both CDI´s, check the cheaper things first before buying an expensive ignition coil.
Cheaper things are your electrical cables. You should check them first.
Sometimes the wires inside the plastic break. You can check these by moving them around and bending them while the engine is running.
Check the high voltage cable going into the spark plug cap. Sometimes the end, witch is screwed into the cap, is corroded. In this case, if it is long enough, cut away 10mm at the end and screw it back into the cap.

There also could be something wrong with the kill switch inside the carb.
To test this just unplug the blue cable from the carb and make a test ride.
Notice: you wil not be able to stop the engine with the blue cable unplugged. You will have to use the choke lever (full choke) to stop the engine.

O.k. now you have a couple off things to test.

Dennis

Oh, I forgot to mention.
If you have an instrument to measure the coil here are the precise readings:

red to blue 0,9 kOhm
red to black 0,9 kOhm
blue to black 0,3 Ohm
red to spark plug cap 3,6 kOhm

Watch out, one of them is Ohm not kOhm!

Dennis

Hi

Well stuff enough to read m8ty. And be very sure its broken before ye buy a new 1. Its such a waste off good money replacing stuff wich is stil good.

buy the right spark plug and get a move on.

unplug the blue cable ( round ) from the carb and look for a spark ( test if it gives you a spark ) Do the testing in a dark surrounding. Other wise its possible its sparks but ye cant see the spark

No spark... replace the cdi for the orignial 1
Stil no spark...... hmmmmmm

All the cables wich are coming from the cdi are still good ? And connected on the right place on the cdi

check if the cable wich go,s to the spark plug isn,t leanig agianst the engine ( making contact with the engine or frame)

If this all doesn, t gives you a spark. Ye coil is death and has moved on to a better place

Thank you so far, again.

And...



Bosch WRC 10, NGK B6HS, BP4, Bosch WR10FC



One will blow up the coil, one will fire incorrectly, one ... which is it?

Quotes:

tnt-dennis hat geschrieben:The plug on your motor looks too small.

Yes, what you see is the OLD plug. I could not at the time, show you the NEW plug as I only installed it just then, when the photograph was taken.

And yes as far as 'too small', the ceramic on the old plug was much shorter, if that means anything regarding 'too small'.

Dieter-K hat geschrieben:Then your ignition coil is defective. This is an issue, we often hear about and many of us have experienced. The ignition coil must be replaced.

wow this is amazing! I had the intuition the coil was failing, but did not want to say anything, and rather hear your response.

Dieter-K hat geschrieben:Japanese 6 or 7 are much too cold for the Saxonette. These spark plugs do not stay clean while riding. You must take a hotter one.
NGK BP4 works. Bosch WR10FC works better with the ignition, because it has a 4,8 kilo-ohm resistor inside.

It would have been REALLY GOOD had you said it EARLIER in the thread, Dieter, as I already bought the B6HS NGK yesterday, based on this thread's advice to get one. If there is more money available I will get yet another one. Otherwise this is getting expensive (coil etc) and may have to wait until next month and let the bike sit.

From previous in this thread:

lemsteraak hat geschrieben: Quote: from Montag 8. April 2013, 17:37:
13. Fit a clean spark plug and check the gap (0.5-0.6mm), I have found better performance with a hotter running spark plug (NGK B6HS) as opposed to the cooler B7HS. It's worth trying a very slightly larger electrode gap (your local motorcycle guy will tell you, it’s to do with your local fuel and Altitude. Learn to “read” spark plug electrode colouring you want “biscuit brown”, it’s the best way to check your combustion is right. Oil around the spark plug means its not sealing properly (low compression), don’t over-tighten the spark plug, rather replace it with a new one with a new seal washer, if possible fit using a torque wrench. Don’t underestimate the importance of the right spark plug and electrode gap, it really does make a huge difference to the performance of the engine.

Dieter-K hat geschrieben:PETROL / KRAFTSTOFF | E10 ETHANOL CONCERNS:
You should simply buy "Super". There are some rubber parts inside the caburetor, which will be destroyed, when they have contact with alcohol over a longer time.

Yes I do. I get 102 octane as I wrote earlier; and as far as I know, it contains no ethanol.

Regarding additional air inlet holes on a BING:

Dieter-K hat geschrieben:4 are no problem.

Note: there are only 2 composite holes, 2 on the outside and 2 on the inlet on the inside of the same diameter.
Yes it is a BING.

yoekio hat geschrieben:When ye use the wrong sparg plug it wil blow up or in ignition ciol. It wil become to hot.
So now ye looking to buy a new ignition ciol and a new sparg plug.

Be very aware considering the cost and al. If the spartamet is wurth all the all the money ye spending on it. This is just a frindly advise. Cos the money isn,t falling out off your ars........ and all.

SO WHICH ONE do YOU recommend ? Could the ignition coil be placed in a different configuration or cooled in some way more effectively? Seeing an image of an aluminium plate, ventilation holes, etc.

yoekio hat geschrieben:If i wos you, i would sell the damn machine, And look for something else to drive on. Once again this is ment as frindly advise, nothing personal wot so effer.

It's working so-far, and already running better based on advice from you and other forum members. Thank you.

Dieter-K hat geschrieben:

Kolbenfresser hat geschrieben: ...Important, the Bosch WRC 10 Spark Plug has 0,8mm you need 0,5mm.

That is the distance between the electrodes.

Bosch WRC 10, NGK B6HS, BP4, Bosch WR10FC



One will blow up the coil, one will fire incorrectly, one ... which is it?

tnt-dennis hat geschrieben:red to blue 0,9 kOhm
red to black 0,9 kOhm
blue to black 0,3 Ohm
red to spark plug cap 3,6 kOhm

Yes there is an electronic digital multimeter here.

Lets hope it´s not your ignition coil.

Does this happen with both CDI´s?

Yes, with both. Before and after.

tnt-dennis hat geschrieben:There also could be something wrong with the kill switch inside the carb.
To test this just unplug the blue cable from the carb and make a test ride.
Notice: you wil not be able to stop the engine with the blue cable unplugged. You will have to use the choke lever (full choke) to stop the engine.

There is a kill switch?

tnt-dennis hat geschrieben: you wil not be able to stop the engine with the blue cable unplugged. You will have to use the choke lever (full choke) to stop the engine.

That is what I have been doing.

Where is this kill switch and how do I use it?

yoekio hat geschrieben:If this all doesn't gives you a spark, ye coil is dead.

The coil basically works and basically must be working. It's only on top throttle the spark seems to completely shut off/die until I let off somewhat on the throttle. Then it comes immediately back. Also if it does stall, there is absolutely no trouble restarting it usually with a single pull.

So I am happy with the idea the coil is somehow defective perhaps, or perhaps not matched well with the spark plug, or both. But just testing the coil cold, or looking for spark, obviously there is spark... its running.

And, where is this transmission fluid plug/replacement? What kind of tranny fluid should I be using? I had no idea it existed but once someone mentioned it here, it makes sense.

Sachs recommends the Bosch WR10FC.

An equivalent from NGK would be the BP4 only that this one does not have a resister inside.
It cold induce HF interference in local radio. If you don´t mind, it is o.k. to use the NGK.

If you live in a country with really hot summers it is possible to use a NGK 5 or 6 series in summer.
Some of the tuning guys with engines that run double the speed yours does use these cold spark plugs (NGK 5 or 6). For your engine these are no good.

Dennis

The kill switch:

When the choke lever is in position 0-(zero), a tiny plate inside the carb is lifted up and connects the ignition coil through the blue cable on the carb to electrical ground on the engine.
That´s all

transmission fluid:

SHELL-SPIRAX MB 90
TEXACO Geartex EP-B SAE 85 W-90
BP Energear Hypo SAE 90
BP Energear FE 80 W 90

Dennis